After nearly 30 years of war, the palm tree-lined beaches ranging from Arugam Bay in the south to Nilaveli in the north are waking up from a lengthy slumber, South Africa's The Mail & Guardian Online said in a report published yesterday(28).

The newspaper reported that Arugam Bay remains an idyllic destination for the backpacker crowd. At one end of the bay, surfers paddle out to look for the next perfect wave, while at the other end, water buffaloes are grazing in the grass. But now, there's a gold-rush fever taking over the place.

'Many people now want to get their foot in the door of the gold mine,' says Merete Scheller, who together with her husband bought a piece of land and built a hotel on it - 28 years ago.

A rough idea of what the government is thinking is provided in the 'Eastern Province Development Action Plan' which the Tourism Ministry has published. Large-sized hotels, new airports and better roads are planned to give a boost to tourism. One of the major projects is at Passekudah, now bumpy, six-hour buses ride north of Arugam Bay, the Mail & Guardian Online said.

It also said that a sign lists the attractions of the 'National Holiday Resort' which one day is to rise up from the swampy land: top-ranking hotels, restaurants, an aquarium, a shopping bazaar, a sports complex, and an open air theatre are foreseen.

Everything is to be completed in one and a half years, says a vendor in his lemonade stand located behind the beach. Some 1,500 tourists are to be provided international-level accommodation in 14 hotels.

Up till now, it is mainly domestic tourists who are splashing about in the shallow waters. The bay's surrounding land gently meets the sea here, making the shallow waters ideal for guests from Colombo or Kandy, many of whom do not know how to swim.

Vahid is one such visitor who together with his family has already come here several times since the war ended. They only visit for the weekend.

'From Kandy, it is only seven hours,' he said, giving a travel time which by Sri Lankan standards is just a short hop. The people come in order to finally see the eastern part of the country which they had not dared to travel into for more than 30 years.

On Pigeon Island women in colourful saris stand gossiping with each other. It's a weekend and shuttle boats are bringing many local visitors to the island paradise. After just a few thrusts of their flippers, snorkellers quickly reach the coral gardens and can watch the sharks swim in elegant circles in the reefs.

For those who want to go yet deeper, the first diving schools have opened up on the beaches of Uppuveli and Liaveli.

'So far, Sri Lanka is not known as a place for a scuba diving vacation,' diving instructor Jayantha admits. But the customers will be coming, of that he is certain - because of the underwater world, but above all because of the fine-sand beaches being gently washed by the sea. It's like bathing in a swimming pool, only much nicer, The Mail & Guardian Online said.